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Leh - Ladakh
Leh - Ladakh
Amidst starkly beautiful and majestic mountains, gradually merging
into an oasis of green fields, Leh is situated on the banks of the
Indus, at a height of 11,000 feet. For seven months a year, Leh
airport is Ladakh's only link with the outside world. Transport,
boarding and lodging facilities are available to suit every pocket and
there is sufficient novelty, antiquity, hospitality and bargains to
satisfy the quest of all types of visitors. With a population of
10,000 people, mainly Buddhist, some Argoos (Muslim descendants of
Yarkandi traders) and a small Christian community, Leh bears the
distinct stamp of its history as the administrative, commercial and
cultural capital of Ladakh. A memorable sight of the Leh bazar is the
group of women, traditionally attired, selling fruits, vegetables and
household articles, spinning and knitting, and exchanging gentle
banter between themselves and with passers-by. The mosque, city
palace, the bazar and the gompas, are all within walking distance.
Shey, Spituk and Phyang are quite close while Stok, Matho, Thiksey,
Stakna, Chernrey, Hemis, Likir, Basgo and Alchi are all a day's
touring distance. Rumbak and Markha offer exciting treks, while Stok
Kangri is the best for a climb. Boating and river running too are
possible on the Indus.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing of the historic monuments and major Buddhist Gompas (monasteries) are the main attractions of Ladakh. the capital, since the building of its nine-storey Leh Palace in the early 17th century. A few
kilometers up the Indus is Shey Palace, the most ancient capital, with its palace and temples. Down river, Basgo, right on the road, and Tingmosgang, a short distance up a side-valley, both served as royal capitals when the Old Kingdom was temporarily divided into two parts in the 15th century. Both these places have the remains of forts and temples dating from the period of their brief glory. Just across the river from Leh lies Stok, the village with which the deposed royal family was compensated for the loss of the throne. Stok Palace, where the royal family now lives, houses a museum of
artifacts associated with the dynasty
Excursions
Leh offers many excursion such as Hemis Monastery which is one of the largest and famous monasteries belonging to Dukpa Order. Likir Monastery belongs to Gelukspa Order is a worth seeing monastery. Lamayuru Monastery belongs to Drigunp a order of Tibetan Buddhism.
Also Excursion to Pangong Lake is worth visiting & an overnight journey
to Nubra Valley via the Khardungla Pass.
SHEY PALACE
Around 12 kms south of Leh, it was the seat of power for the first king of Ladakh, Lhachen Spalgigon who constructed the hill top fortress. The ruins can be seen from above the present Shey Palace. There is a monastery too and its main image is the three-story statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, made of Copper guilt.
STOK PALACE
This has been the Royal Palace since the King was dethroned by the Dogras and is now the home of the last king\'s widow. It is around 12 kms from Leh. There is an interesting museum that contains an odd collection of exhibits including the King\'s teacup holder, the queen\'s turquoise headdress, and many more interesting things.
THIKSEY MONASTERY
In south of Leh the most beautiful of all the monasteries in Ladakh belongs to Gelukspa Order. Around 80 monks reside here at present. Thiksey festival is held in the month of October-November.
RI – DZONG
Ri-dzong, situated a few kilometres up a side-valley from Uley-Tokpo, was founded only a century and a quarter ago by a devout layman-turned-lama, with the purpose of following the strict monastic rules of the Gelugs-pa sect.
Excursions From Leh
- Alchi Monastery - 70 kms from Leh, on the banks of river
Indus is Alchi Gompa dating back to the 11th century. It is one of
the largest and a famous monastery with a widely renowned collection
of paintings. One of its walls features thousands of miniature-sized
pictures of the Buddha. This monastery is maintained by the monks of
Likir monastery and is no longer a place for active worship.
- Hemis Monastery - 40 kms from Leh, Hemis is one of the
richest, biggest and most famous Gompa in Ladakh. Built in 1630, it
belongs to the red sect. Its popularity stems from the major annual
festival held during summer in honour of their Guru Padma Sambhava's
birth anniversary, every 12 years the thanka with his photograph is
displayed - the largest in the world. The monastery houses silver
chortens studded with precious and semi precious stones, an
impressive library of Tibetan style books, large number of thankas,
various images of Buddha and frescoes including the famous "Wheel of
Life".
- Lamayuru - According to the legend, during the time of
Sakya Muni Buddha there used to be a crystal clear lake where the
monastery today stands, with the blessing of the Lama the water of
the lake receded leaving place for the monastery. The complex was
founded in the 11th century and houses a library, thought to be the
oldest in region. The present monastery dates back to the 16th
century and has the 11 headed image of the Avalokiteshwara Buddha,
mainly in ruins it also has some murals and thankas. Considered the
free zone of Ladakh, not even a criminal can be apprehended here.
- Likir Monastery - Founded in the 11th century AD and was
rededicated to another monastic order (the yellow sect) in the 15th
century, its earlier Gompa was destroyed in fire. The present Gompa
dates back to the 18th century. It contains huge clay images of
Buddha's (past, present & future) and various old manuscripts. It
also houses an interesting collection of thankas, old religious and
domestic costumes and implements etc.
- Phyang - Belonging to the red sect, this Gompa was built
in the 16th century. Just 16 kms from Leh, it houses hundreds of
statues, thankas, old manuscripts and some old weapons.
- Shey - Until the 16th century it was the royal residence,
Kings of Leh were supposed to be born in the monasteries. This
Palace Monastery has the largest statue of Maitreya Buddha (Buddha
to come) in Ladakh. Erected in the mid 17th century, worked out of
gold and gilded copper sheets with blue hair, it stands 17.5 meters
high.
- Spituk - 8 kms from Leh, standing majestically on top of
a hillock overlooking the Indus Valley, Spituk Gompa is from the
yellow sect. It houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms,
icons and numerous thankas. Higher up the hill is the Mahakal
Temple, containing the shrine of Vajrabhairava. This terrifying face
is unveiled only at the annual festival in January.
- Stok Palace - The palace of the banished royal family
dates back to the mid 19th century. The Palace museum has on display
fabulous period costumes and jewelry of the royalty along with
exquisite thankas representing the life of the Sakya Muni Buddha.
Interesting historical objects like coins, seals, armour, weapons,
precious jade and porcelain can also be seen here. The Royal family
still continues to live here.
- Thiksey - About 20 kms from Leh, Thiksey is an imposing
monastery and one of the finest example of Ladakhi architecture. The
12 storey monastery complex contains numerous stupas, statues,
thankas, wall paintings, swords and a large pillar engraved with the
Buddha's teachings. The main prayer hall has a 15 mt high seated
Buddha figure.
- Shankar - A relatively modern monastery, it is closely
associated with the Spituk monastery and serves as the residence of
the head priest - Kushak Bakula. A number of gold icons are to be
found here.
- Basgo - 40 km downstream from Leh, it was the seat of
power of a branch of the Namgyal family. It is here in 1680 A.D.
that invading Mongol and Tibetian armies were held in check over a
three year long seige. Original 16th century murals and other arts
of Basgo are well worth a visit.
- Chernrey - 45 km from Leh, situated in a picturesque
valley leading to Changia, this gompa was constructed as a funeral
act of merit on Sengge Namgyal's death in 1645. A large collection
of scriptures with title pages in sterling silver and the text in
gold letters is kept here. Close by is a cave monastery reputed to
have been the abode of Padma Sambhav during one of his periods of
meditation.
- Stakna - A few kilometers upstream from Thikse, Stakna is
situated on a 60 meter high isolated rock.
- Matho - Situated on the opposite bank of the Indus across
Thikse, Matho was established in the first half of the 16th century
AD and has a valuable collection of very old and beautiful thankas,
some in the form of 'mandalas'. Its annual festival of oracles in
early March is an important event in the Ladakhi religious calendar.
Young monks selected as oracles undergo long periods of meditation,
fasting and ritual purification to gain spiritual strength. When
possessed they perform astonishing feats with swords and knives,
cavorting blindfolded along narrow parapets.
- Mulbekh - Precariously perched a top a 200 meter high
crag, it has an imposing rock carving of Chamba, the future Buddha.
On the other end of the valley is a large vertical phallus shaped
rock with a monastery at its base.
- Tak-Thog Gompa : 50 km. East of Leh, this is the only
monastery belonging to the Nying-ma-pa order. Gum Rinpoche (Padma
Sambhava) is said to have founded this monastery. The temple where
he meditated is still to be seen at Tak Thog (rock-roofed)
monastery. The monastery is tucked in the lap of a rock and owes its
name to its roof which is a natural rock. Tu-Phuk houses the images
of Guru-Tsan-gyet (eight forms of Padma Sambhava), Guru Takpo Tsahl
and the 11-headed Avalokitesvara.
The new monastery is built on ground level and contains the image of
Guru Nang Srith Zilon in a central position; to its right is an
image of Guru Dorje Dolo and to its left an image of Guru Padma
Gyalpo. There are seats for His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Taklung
Rinpoche;the latter is the incarnate Lama of the monastery. The
monastery stages two festivals every year. Tak Thog Tse Chu is held
from the ninth to the eleventh day of the sixth Tibetan month. Tak
Thog Wangchogis held from the 26th to the 29th day of the ninth
Tibetan lunar month.
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